Seeing now how shiny the SM components are ..
Wouldn't the SM be a better buy for you and in general?
New Enduro wheels will cost less than the portable charger which I guess you'll want as well.
Stark mobile charger is out !
- Thread starter Aleksandar13
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Wouldn't the SM be a better buy for you and in general?
New Enduro wheels will cost less than the portable charger which I guess you'll want as well.
I think I agree with you even if you would have to change the left fork bottom because of the radial supermoto fork bottom on the SM.
The SM fork bottom and triple clamps are really nice parts.
leadingedge
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The front brakes and discs on the SM would not be ideal for off-road riding, it would be better to also replace those.
Yes, obviously, but it's something that can easily be swapped and it's not very expensive to buy an EX/MX brake caliper and disc.
The fork bottom it's more complicated or you would have to find a complete EX/MX left fork tube.
Enduro wheels are also much cheaper and easier to find in second-hand sales.
I have a complete brake setup to swap without bledding (master cylinder, caliper, aviation hose).
If I had the choice I'm not sure what I would do, only because of the triple clamps and radial fork bottom.
Erwin P
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Yess and the SM probably has very different inner suspension setup.
I would still pick the EX. It looks like the clamp doens't have the damping of the EX/MX.
I would still pick the EX. It looks like the clamp doens't have the damping of the EX/MX.
Yes the valving is obviously different but you need to find the compromise that suits you the best if you can't afford to have both bikes
Erwin P
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True, that's why saying ''Wouldn't the SM be a better buy for you and in general?'' isn't really right i guess.
I have been thinking about getting the front KYB's of my Beta Into my Stark MX for Enduro situations. Sad thing the rear doesn't swap. On the other hand that rear of the Stark is so versitale it does manage enduro really well.
I have been thinking about getting the front KYB's of my Beta Into my Stark MX for Enduro situations. Sad thing the rear doesn't swap. On the other hand that rear of the Stark is so versitale it does manage enduro really well.
Well, aside for the fact that a portable charger is a wise idea for a street legal bike, the charger stand has been disliked by many and some people including me have noticed that it's pretty tall, so probably the SM has less ground clearance and therefore it's less suitable for that stand.
its software bug, It is not possisble with single socket/single charger
3,3kW on 230V - real current 14,3A from socket - I put once 20A on shucko for experiments - I use high quality audio plug and 4mm wires - it works but socket and terminals was VERY VERY HOT
I cant imagine to put 25-28A on regular outlet
before charger - best just power meter (plug and play)
after charger - DC clamp meter (cheapest good) will cost about 40-50euro
but it is game changer - then if you know battery voltage you can exactly know what W you are actually charging and calculate loses on charger
The EX with 2 wheels set up (enduro and SM) is not the cheapest but the better choice in my opinion if you like both worlds and you plan to do it both over the years
there are people saying their bikes were charging much faster... something doesnt makes sense, im tempted to tell stark about this but their support is very busy right now i dont want to stress them more
Erwin P
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Had the same thought. Rather have their resourses on people with issues or trying to buy bikes.
leadingedge
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For now, it might be a software glitch but it's probably the first stage of Stark's preparation for direct DC charging at high input from EV roadside chargers.
I think it can be depend of AC gird voltage
if you have for example 240V on AC then with 16A limit on AC side will give you 3,8kW from wall
battery voltage at 60% should be about 380V so with 10A dc current on charger - in theory you can charge a little faster
for example same with tesla3/y - onboard charger is 11kW and it charge on 0 and 90% with the same rate
however on 0% tesla has even below 300V< and near 90% about 400V
this means for 0% you will need almos 40A to get 11kW, and below 30A at 90%
if you dont have current 16A AC limit then 40A DC at 90% will give you 16kW - and probably its possible bcoz tesla onboard charger max voltage is about 270V
once I was able to put 253V on i got 12,1kW
(if you somehow can put 270v on AC side you will get 13kW)I hope someone can understand it
what a beautiful and caring customers we are uh? hahaha
How do you intend to use it? Not that I've ever opened them, but both the cable that connects the wall socket to the charger and the one that connects the charger to the bike have a sheath that must cover more than a wire, including a hot wire that brings the current to its destination and a neutral that returns it to the source. Because of this, the net current that a clamp meter would measure, with both cables, is zero. One way in which you can still measure the current is to have an extension cord for the wall socket with split wires, but personally I've never seen one and I doubt that they are available. So, if you think that you can do it safely, you can make one by just breaking the sheath of a common extension cord, separate the wires and use the meter only with either the neutral or the hot wire.
EDIT:
Also, there are three orange cables on the inverter of the Gen1 and I guess that:
one is the hot for the battery-inverter connection,
one is the neutral still for the battery-inverter connection,
one is connected to the charging port and I think that it contains two wires.
I imagine that the inverter of the Gen2 doesn't have the third one but still has the other two.
Apparently, during charge, the current passes through the inverter before reaching the battery. I guess that a clamp meter would record the current around either the hot or neutral orange cable, that don't need to be split.
As always, be careful with insulations and don't pull wires with the clamp.
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Yes, that's what I was thinking when I mentioned the orange cables from the inverter. The voltage should be the battery voltage, so around 360 V, lower when at low states of charge and higher when at higher states of charge.
