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Here I go with another wheelie thing! - but this isn't a bolted-down dollar store ride this time, this is an Alta. :) I was looking for conventional wheelie casters - didn't really want one, but what else was there? - and found the answer: the SB Moto ABS wheelie bar. It looks like a caster...

+1 ! Even on an IP67 bike, the temp swings and dew-point transitions don't do anything any good.

This is what I wrote down the first time my number plates came off: Rear screw has a short black spacer, the 2nd & 3rd screws use medium-length silver spacers, and the front screw has a long black spacer.

My 30kW house generator does - a long stake driven deep into the earth, with a short thick cable to the generator enclosure chassis.

Your prototypes sound excellent, and I hope all goes well for you and Flux. Some of these have been mentioned already, but in a full-power bike I'd like to be able to swap your 3kWh and 6kWh batteries easily (I'd buy both, I prefer lighter weight and imo a spare battery is a good idea)...

Apparently 13A in fast-charge mode, and 10A in normal. KTM manual page

My battery's covered with a non-hardening soft black sealant there too - mine would easily scrape off with a fingernail. If it were me, I'd just clean the area and re-apply a similar sealant.

The big trailer-mounted wheelie machines have dyno drums that probably add a lot of 'synthetic momentum', for lack of a better term (I use a spring to simulate it, still working on the rate & preload but getting there). My setup has almost no lateral play in it - took a while to get it that...

Thread at Electric Motorcycle Forum A modified version of this setup should work fine with the Alta.

Yes, I felt that too last year, so I started running my chain at 40-45mm of slack (Alta manual calls for 30-35mm). When I changed out the shock recently I positioned the swingarm at minimum slack, and found it was almost binding-tight at one point in the wheel rotation. Now I run the...

Based on my motor-replacement experience in my non-Alta bike, if this happened to me I'd change out the entire motor if feasible (I was surprised at the difference fresh magnets made!) and/or send the old one out to Accu Electric or similar for shaft/bearing/seal etc. replacement - remagnetizing...

Thanks for the superb write-up and pics! If/when the day comes to put mine in, it'll be great to know what to do.

In addition to Mark's comments, I think there may also be a truth-in-advertising aspect... I've been watching these guys since 2015 and they've always mentioned two battery sizes available (small/light & large/heavy). I think the '7000 WH' battery spec should probably read 'up to 7000 WH'...

+1, on everything! I always wanted Konis, especially the aluminum-finned ones. Remember the Franks "monoshock"? Apparently it worked pretty well - I wonder how it'd work for electric with a lightweight modern single shock & modified swingarm?

Just a quick suggestion to the MXM guys, based on actual experience with this type of setup back in the day - a 'banana' swingarm ('80 Mugen 125 example below, the MXM unit would be different but the same basic idea): This allows using a long shock at a more conventional angle rather than the...

+1 - much appreciated!

Looks real solid - nice! Truss-head screws might be a good fit to minimize snagging - just a bit lower & wider than pan or button heads.

+1 on the Ohlins shock (my AER's finally working well at 96 psi, think I'll stick with it for now). FBI got my first spring wrong too, but now with the proper 5.8 and two revalves it's pretty close to correct for my riding - a huge improvement over the WP. If you're using that Ohlins washer on...

Amazing! No doubt it will drop temps significantly.

If your main problem is bottoming, I think you're much better off solving it with spring rate (progressive, not just super-stiff) rather than damping. Getting the last 25% of travel correct for the big stuff frees you up to do whatever you want with the other 75%. Bottoming bumpers can also...