Maximizing Range for the Stark Varg

[Theo]

I run 14/48 on 17" supermoto wheels at 100% regen and get right at 60 miles from a charge.

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If those 60 miles have been measured with the on-board odometer, and if that odometer works measuring the rotational speed of the rear wheel as I suspect, then the 60 miles value has been affected by the different size of the rear wheel.

 

[Raindog]

If those 60 miles have been measured with the on-board odometer, and if that odometer works measuring the rotational speed of the rear wheel as I suspect, then the 60 miles value has been affected by the different size of the rear wheel.

Well, it's twenty-two miles from my house to work. When I pull into the garage at the end of the day I usually have 29-31% charge left on the clock.

 

[Johnny Depp]

I run 14/48 on 17" supermoto wheels at 100% regen and get right at 60 miles from a charge.

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I assume you are using some other odometer besides stock, which reads the rear wheel? Racetrack or commuting?

 

[Johnny Depp]

Well, it's twenty-two miles from my house to work. When I pull into the garage at the end of the day I usually have 29-31% charge left on the clock.

That's decent, I'd imagine you could easily run much higher gearing. For under $100 bucks.

 

[Raindog]

I assume you are using some other odometer besides stock, which reads the rear wheel? Racetrack or commuting?

The speedo uses gps, there's no pickup for a traditional gauge and I'm not sure why anyone would want one. I commute on the bike during the week and mostly run the BRP on the weekends.

I could run a smaller sprocket on the back and maybe pick up a few miles if I ran interstate at sustained speeds but that's not how I use the bike. I'm in and out of the throttle on tight backroads for the vast majority of my daily commute.

I did a 200 mile day on my 2t motard a few months back and by the end of the day I was wishing I had taken the truck.

 

[Chaconne]

On this past Sunday I got 15 miles of slow mostly single track with some Enduro gnarly hills used about 35% battery. So I could comfortably get the same as @Johnny Depp in the slow gnarl.

I am mostly stock with my newer Varg. Some Acerbis parts and an AXP skid plate still running the Pirellies (with IRC heavy duty tubes) till they are worn out, they don't like the 8 psi...

 

[brongle]

The speedo uses gps, there's no pickup for a traditional gauge and I'm not sure why anyone would want one. I commute on the bike during the week and mostly run the BRP on the weekends.

I could run a smaller sprocket on the back and maybe pick up a few miles if I ran interstate at sustained speeds but that's not how I use the bike. I'm in and out of the throttle on tight backroads for the vast majority of my daily commute.

I did a 200 mile day on my 2t motard a few months back and by the end of the day I was wishing I had taken the truck.

Speedo is based on motor spin not GPS, it will be inaccurate if you change gearing or wheels.

 

[OpaTsupa]

Speedo is based on motor spin not GPS, it will be inaccurate if you change gearing or wheels.

Varg speedo/distance is inaccurate [lower] by ≈5% compared to a GPS watch which I trust.
This is for short rides of 20-30km.

 

[vic321]

I don't think you will get better range in hard Enduro with taller gearing. The wheel/motor speeds are so low you will stay well in its operating area.

There is plenty of torque on tap, but not a lot of power at crawl speed in sensibel horsepower modes. And in the end it's power that moves you, not torque.
That results in a ''slowish'' reacting bike when rock crawling with tall gearing. Offcourse you could just add hp so overcome the lack of power down low. But when it then whiskey throttles it's off to the moon and when doing steep hillclimbs that power puts you into wheelspin or backflip scenario's rather quickly.

No, its always torque that moves you. Horsepower is just a mathematical construct. Therefore HP is always abysmal in low rpm. By changing the gearing you always change torque, never the HP.

 

[Erwin P]

Torque is a stationairy force Nm. The amount of force that's needed to move an object is power in J or W (or HP so you will).

By changing the gearing you change the amount of HP per revolution of the rear wheel by changing the Torque part of the Formula. HP = Torque × RPM / 7023. Change the Torque at the rear wheel at the same wheelspeed (actually what you do when changing gearing) and you have increased/decreased HP.

 

[vic321]

Nope, you do not. The HP stays constant. HP= Torque*rpm. Simple math. you change gearing to 1/2", then you raise torque by doubling, and rpm by half. The multipilcation keeps the same. There is no way to change HP by changin the gearing.
What you suggest is to double the rpm for the engine per turn of the wheel. That has a limit in the rpm range of the engine. Nevertheless the effect you get is from larger torque. If you got more than enough torque from the engine from 0rpm on, these kind of games become meaningless. With the Stark you get much more torque (and HP) from the standard gearing, than you will ever get from changing the gearing on an ICE bike. Without the rpm limitation. A traction control would be much more handy.